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TARCOLES - After we landed in San Jose we waited at the airport for our friends from Boston to arrive. We collected Moose, Lisa, Brandi and Eric, picked up our rental car, and headed to a house we'd rented in Nuevo Arenal. On the first day we woke up to the sounds of cicaedas, howler monkeys, about a thousand species of birds, and this view...

On our first day we decided to take a hike around Volcan Arenal, an active volcano that had it's last full eruption in 1992. In 2001 some hikers were killed here but nevermind that. Here's the volcano...

Here's the warning sign at the head of the trail. Eric was not afraid...

Here's a very strange beetle we encountered on the trail. We also encountered more ticks, and we had fun pulling them off each other later... but I don't like talking about that.

Here's us across from the volcano viewpoint. From here you could hear volcanic rock spitting out of the volcano and tumbling down the slopes. Later on that night - from an hour's drive away - we could see the lava flow glowing and we heard an explosion as it erupted just a teensy bit.

Here we are after our trip to the volcano. Moose is up to no good with that rocking chair...

One of the cool things we did was head to a little butterfly/amphibian farm. The guide took us for a short hike and got us lost at the end of the tour, but we got to see a toucan. At the farm they had a bunch of screen covered arch buildings with all kinds of butterflies... along with an awesome assortment of tree frogs, including the poison dart frog varieties.

For the last half of our trip we stayed in Tarcoles across from the beach. Well, across from the beach and the livestock rather. There were over two dozen scarlet maccaws that would fly back and forth and roost in the trees around the house so Anna was pretty excited. Here's a shot of one tree with a bunch of them...

Here's the goat that lived in the field just out our front door. He had a lovely bleat but smelled kinda funky. Lisa fed him a mutilated banana, and I think he enjoyed it.

These are the crocodiles that lived in the Tarcoles River just down the street. If you can't tell from the photo, these guys are BIG. We saw almost 20 of them hanging around together - waiting for something tasty. Our water went out for a day and one of the locals suggested bathing in the river like they do. Umm, yeah... not a chance.

We also took a trip to Carrara National Park and saw some good stuff including lizards, bats, toucans, trogans, monkeys, agoutis, and my personal favorite, poison dart frogs. Here's one of the many we saw... you´re not supposed to touch them as the toxins in their skin do bad things to folks. Anna and Moose were the best at spotting them.

Fresh fruit was in abundance down here and we took advantage of all the pinapple, mango, bananas, and watermelon that was available. Here's a shot of Brandi and Lisa cutting up some delicious mango with Eric in the back... he wanted to soak it in the rum.

When night came we'd usually be out chasing toads, cicaedas, and lizards around the backyard, drink in one hand camera in the other. And believe me, Moose would usually take a thousand pictures of everything we spotted. He took this very artsy shot of a favorite visitor we got...

All in all we had a pretty busy week. Between the sight seeing, the rum, the food and the sun we were pretty darned tired by the end of each day. Some of us even took a little rest now and again. I know Moose will make me pay for this photo...

Lisa, Moose, Brandi and Eric dropped us off in Alajuela today after a fun and scary car ride with Brandi-Andretti at the wheel through the guard-rail-less mountain roads of central america. Thanks so much for coming down to visit us... it was awesome to see everybody and we look forward to more adventures!
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DRAKE BAY - We had to get to San Jose by 1:30 on May 2nd so we decided to fly. The other alternative (boat, bus, taxi etc) required an overnight stay - and blew all kinds of time - but it was cheap. Our flight to San Jose took 45 minutes but was pricey. From the Mirador it was a 10 minute trip to the Drake Bay "airport" in a taxi that had to drive through a river (I quite enjoyed that bit). Upon arriving at the airport we didn't actually SEE an airport. Just this "check in counter"...

Seriously, the check-in guy was sitting on a bench made of planks and blocks and called somebody on the radio with our passport numbers. Here's where they weigh your bags... or the animal you just dragged out of the woods.  Check out the luggage counter...

The best part about this airport was the complete lack of security lines. Before boarding the plane I didn't have to take my shoes off, walk through a scanner, or turn my head and cough. Here's the plane... a 12 passenger Cessna Caravan. 
We were the only passengers on the flight so we sat directly behind the pilot and co-pilot. I of course had absolutely no interest in the array of gauges, lights, and switches on the panel. I actually remembered how to use all the navigation systems from my flight school days. Pilots are doing their pre-flight check now... 
Here's the take off. It was spectacular to pop over the end of the runway and see the beach and shore beneath us. 
45 minutes later after a trip full of gorgeous mountain views we touched down in San Jose. After reconsidering the alternative we agreed that the flight was some of the best money we've spent.
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DRAKE BAY - Anna did a semester abroad 10 years ago in Costa Rica and never got the chance to visit the Osa Peninsula. It was a pretty difficult place to get to back then and still is a bit out of the way today... but we got here and it is gorgeous! You have to take a boat down-river to the ocean and then down the coast to Drake Bay... on the way we saw this "little" guy waiting for dinner...

We stayed at a place called "Mirador" and it was a bit of a splurge for us at 40/night per person, but that at least included meals. There aren't any cars and there aren't many people so it's very peaceful and you can't beat the view. Here's where we stayed.

This is what we had to look at all day...

For the entire trip Anna has been wanting to see scarlet maccaws in the wild. We missed them in Belize, missed them in Guatemala, missed them up in northern Costa Rica... but we found them here! There were quite a few of them too, and they are so loud that you could hear them a half mile away. This one perched himself in a nearby tree to check us out (pardon the zoom)...

This pair did the same... they were very curious about us, and we them. They are big beautiful colorful creatures that sound like cats fighting.

Anna loves these plants. I think they're called "touch me nots" and they have the coolest defense mechanism against insects.

If you touch them they fold their leaves like this...

Cool thing about the Mirador was the dinners were all communal... we sat with all the other guests so eating was a pretty social event. Most were Europeans so you can bet politics never came up We met a lot of cool folks... heres a picture of our friends Wolfgang and Timon from Berlin...

Wolfgang and Timon took a hike with us one day and led us to this cool bridge...

And we found this curious guy...

Then we came to this gorgeous beach that had a zillion tiny hermit crabs on the rocks...

Anna loved the maccaws but my favorite part was a night hike in the jungle. The skies opened on us and we walked along the beach in a lightning storm but we saw some fantastic wildlife. We saw giant smoky mountain frogs (known to eat kittens), a chunk-head snake, a tail-less scorpion (I held it), a venemous cat-eyed snake (held that too), masked tree frogs, marine toads, huge caterpillars, bioluminescent moss... and the quintessential rainforest creature - the red-eyed tree frog! They are extremely hard to find, and I've wanted to see one since the last time I visited Costa Rica... so I was pretty excited. I unfortunately didn't take this photo but here he is...

The trip into Drake Bay was a 2-day long complete pain in the ass so we decided to fly out. It was expensive but easy and the views were so spectacular it turned out to be another one of the highlights.
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LEON - It looks like we got a little behind again in the blogging so let me catch you up on what we´ve been up to in the last few weeks. From Los Chiles we headed across the border by river boat to nearby San Carlos Nicaragua in hopes of spotting some great wildlife at a Nature Reserve we found in our book. It was interesting to note while on the Costa Rica part of the river we saw all kinds of birds, turtles, lizards, mokeys, crocodiles and caymans, but they all but disappeared when we crossed into Nicaragua where they are not protected.
At the border we met Andrew from Oklahoma and travelled with him to San Carlos. He was quite a character, and is very passionate about kids - he´s trying to start up an orphanage in Costa Rica which is no small task. He says he´s just about to begin the construction phase and we wish him the best. Here he is giving a guitar show to the folks waiting for the boat.

San Carlos was a complete dump and a disappointment save for the childrens merry go round that was powered by a v6 Toyota motor mated to a 5 speed manual transmission. It was delightful to watch the operator shift gears while the kids screamed with glee and/or terror. We couldn´t get in touch with the Nature Reserve we hoped to visit so we headed back to Costa Rica and decided to check out the cloud forests in Fortuna near Lake Arenal instead.
The lodge we went to in Fortuna was $6 per night per person in our guide book, but the prices were a bit old I think. The new rate was $45 for a double room, but it was gorgeous, and on an evening walk we saw - or nearly stepped on rather - one of the worlds most venomous snakes... the Terciopelo (aka Fer de Lance).

We also took on a pretty decent hike to checked out this gorgeous waterfall...

Here´s Anna relaxing in the hot sun after a very cold swim in the waterfall pool.

Here´s the oddly mutated double banana we shared for lunch... (yes, i put it on a pillow to take the picture)

Next stop was Granada Nicaragua - where we had a fabulous dinner at an Italian Restaurant - and then off to Laguna de Apoyo, a picturesque lake in the middle of a volcano crater. We spent a few days floating in the lake on inner tubes. Turned out to not be such a good idea as we now believe there was 'stuff' floating in the water. Actually, the fungal infection Anna got on her leg proves it. Annnnyway, we met some great folks and talked about stuff like genetically modified seeds, ipod malfunctions, recycling, and alaskan brown bears. While drinking rum of course. It really was a beautiful spot, and reminded me of growing up at our cottage in Sunapee.

Finally we returned to The Cedar House in Leon and drank some more of Francesco´s amazing Mojitos. We went back to Nicaragua was so I could fly to Boston for a suprise showing at my brother Jay´s bachelor party. After a 21 hour travel day my friends Jim and John picked me up at midnight and hid me until the party. Jay´s looking pretty good here...

Being back in Boston was weird... the roads were smooth, the cars were nice, the air was cold and didn´t have the pleasant smell of burning plastic - but it was awesome to see some family and friends if just for a short while. Another highlight was that I got to see my new nephew Samuel for the first time...

I flew back on Monday and after another long day of travelling Anna was waiting for me at the Managua airport. She was a sight for sore eyes! While I was away she had some good adventures of her own, but I´ll let her tell those stories...
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LOS CHILES - Well, we are camped out in Los Chiles, Costa Rica, trying our best to avoid the chaos that is Semana Santa. The Costa Ricans celebrate Good Friday in a big way. Everyone closes shop and goes on vacation. Which is fine, unless you are a traveller trying to take buses or need to purchase something. Suddenly everthing became a big hassle... the buses were all full and all destinations were booked. So we found a quiet little town way up by the Nicaraguan border, where not much happens, and are hiding for a few days until the storm passes.
So the only thing of interest to report about in the last few days are Costa Rica ´s Pre Columbian stone spheres. So heres the deal. Some 2,000 to 3,000 years ago, the communities in Costa Rica decided to build these huge balls out of rock. Some got to be up to 6 feet in diameter and weigh multiple tons. The communities back then only had stone tools, and the spheres were perfect within 5mm. No one really knows why they built them, though some of them were lined up pointing north or in other patterns. I thought that was pretty intriguing.
Heres Tom with one we came across in San Jose, the capital. Tom was not quite as impressed by the big stone balls as I was. Yeah, its not Stonehenge, but you gotta wonder...

Most of them have been moved from their original resting place, so its difficult to study them. Lots have been destroyed. I guess at one point there was this idea that gold was hidden inside, so people would go around blowing them up.
So taking us back to the present, guess what we came across in Los Chiles? A Pre Columbian stone sphere... painted to look like a soccer ball. Greeeeeat.

I was pretty horrified that a 3,000 year old artifact was painted over. So Tom says (jokingly), ´Who needs history, when you´ve got a soccer ball?´. Sheesh
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PUERTO VIEJO DE SARAPIQÙI - We had our first Costa Rican rainforest experience! We just visited the Estaciòn Biological de la Selva in Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqùi. Thats quite a mouthful, so Tom dubbed it ´Frogtown´. Why you might ask? Because it was chock full of little red and blue frogs! We were delighted. These guys were known as ´Bluejeans frogs´ because of their coloring. Tom wanted to lick one, but the guide wouldnt let him.

This was a truely wonderful place. We also spotted two sloths. Heres a picture... the sloth is a fuzzy grey ball. I would say that the picture doesnt do him justice, but thats pretty much what it looked like to us too. It was pretty neat though... they really dont move! It kindof makes you want to shake the tree.

We also saw leaf cutter ants, army ants, bullet ants, and ´bighead´ants, a turkey-like bird that makes booming noises, damsel flies, blue skinks, shiny golden scarabs, and lots of big toucans! We also heard and smelled a peccary, which is a stinky pig native to Central America, but couldnt see it. We had a marvelous time! |
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ISLA OMETEPE - Wow, this place is unbelivable. Picture an inland freshwater lake, which is stamped in the middle with an island that consists of two volcanos. The waters around are inhabited by freshwater bullsharks, and the island is filled with tarantulas, massive toads, and howler monkeys. We had the best time!
These petroglyphs are estimated to be between 1,500 and 3,000 years old (they dont really know).

We watched Volcan Concepcion fume throughout our stay, and a couple of times it burped a huge grey cloud! This is the view from our hotel´s balcony. Just imagine a huge garden in front and clucking chickens, and you can start to understand the allure!

We hiked 8 hours (ow) to the top of the smaller, non active Volcan Maderas, which had a lake in the crater filled with pollywogs.

These came out at night... this one was maybe a foot long?

And the BEST part! Tarantulas roamed about at night. I even found one in our room. Luckily we had seen about six of them in the previous evenings (we averaged 2 tarantulas a night) so it didnt feel like such a big deal to shoo it out into the hallway.

Another interesting development on the island was the roadblocks. Apparently, the local mayor wanted the ferry to the mainland to adopt another port closer to their town, and organized roadblocks to hurt the ferry´s business in Moyogalpa. Im still not entirely clear about the logic behind this, but politics work differently in Nicaragua.
This is a picture of where we stayed on Isla Ometepe. Our hotel was called Finca Magdalena. Its a working coffee farm, and at the time of our visit they were drying coffee beans on cement slabs behind our building. All this for only 7 bucks a night!

And one last view of V. Concepcion from Finca Magdalena... we loved this place!

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GRENADA - Well, Grenada was absolutely GORGEOUS, but we couldnt wait to get the heck out. The place was loaded with pretty colonial buildings, cobblestone streets, and had green parrots twittering in the boughs over parque central. But the locals werent too keen on gringos. Nothing hostile mind you (dont worry mom!) but there were no smiles, and certainly no friendly chatting. We actually had a small child growl at us at one point (the adults refrained, but barely). Actually, perhaps it was because Americans and Europeans were purchasing all the property and the Nicas could no longer afford homes in Grenada. Hmmm... maybe Id growl too.
Heres a few pics anyways...
This is the cathedral on the central park.

A hallway of one of the colonial buildings along the park.

And... another building on the park. We liked the park!

Well, to be fair, we did meet a couple of friendly people. Tom and I decided to buy a couple of homeless guys dinner, and they were very nice.
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