CAYE CAULKER - Anna and Joff and I decided we'd take a snorkeling trip.  On Christmas Eve, Anna and I met this guy named Howard who is a psychiatrist from New Mexico.  He'd been coming down to Caye Caulker, Ignacio's cabanas actually, for 20 years or so and knew the island pretty darned well.  He strongly suggested that we track down a particular guy and get him to take us on a snorkel trip.  This guy SAILS out to the reef with only a few people instead of taking a 3-motored boat that holds 30.  We were very thankful for the recommendation.

Now, I don't mean to be all secretive or cloak and dagger or anything, but this 'particular guy' asked us not to go telling everybody about what he showed us out there in the water.  He is a true man of the sea and loves it and all it's creatures so he wants to protect it and keep it safe.  You'd know what I mean if you saw the droves of tour boats chock-full of eager snorkelers that dump in and out of the reef all day.  It's not that I think they're bad... heck, we would have been on one of those boats ourselves if we hadn't gotten this recommendation... but the guides don't care about your experience as long as they get your money.  Our guide, a native of Caye Caulker, spoke of how our experience was for 'the rest of our lives', came in the water WITH us, and was determined to make sure we had a fantastic time.



What we saw and what he shared with us was absolutely amazing.  I want to spill it all but want to respect his wishes.  I will say it was such a fantastic experience and if you want to check it out I'll tell you how to get in touch with the guy.   We set out at 10:30 and on a gorgeous hour and a half sail to the reef.  Immediately we tuned in to the almost 'dali llama' quality this man possessed.  He's spiritual rather than religious, and doesn't eat fish as long as he can help it.  He likes to stay here during the hurricanes and he's not in it for the money.  He turned down a documentary with National Geographic 20 years ago because he doesn't want to ruin what he has out there.  Motor boats whizzed passed us all day... he'd just shake his head and say 'they don't know sh**'.  And then we'd all just sit back, relax and enjoy the quiet power of his sail boat. 

After we sailed back home we sat at See Beez, a local bar just off the dock, and shared a drink.  We all kindof looked dumfounded at one another and asked if the trip really happened.  Did we actually just do that?  It was magical and I'll never forget that day or the guide, so I guess it really is for the rest of your life.

 

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